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Orange County Real Estate-
Tips
on Home Buying
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Buying a home can be one of
your most significant investments in life. Not only are you choosing your
dwelling place, and the place in which you will bring up your family, you
are most likely investing a large portion of your assets into this venture.
The more prepared before buying your home, the less overwhelming and
chaotic the buying process will be. The goal of this page is to provide you
with detailed information to assist you in making an intelligent and
informed decision. Remember, if you have any questions about the process,
you may
e-mail your questions
or give Orange County Homes and Loans a call toll-free at 800-546-2289.
Have
questions about buying a home?
Check
out this helpful information.
There's no point
wasting time and energy house-hunting before you know
what you can afford. So your next step is to assess your
finances:
-
Compare Buying with
Renting
-
Find out about interest
rates
-
Understand your closing
costs
-
Figure out your income,
debt and down payment
-
Calculate how much home
you can afford!

Does
it Pay to Buy a Home or Simply to Rent?

If, like most
first-time buyers, you are presently renting, it's easy to calculate
your cost - simply, the monthly rent you pay. (Utilities, phone,
cable, and other costs can be ignored in this comparison because
they'll be approximately the same whether you rent or buy.)
But calculating the cost of
homeownership is much more complicated, because income tax
considerations affect your bottom line. And there is, in addition, the
uncertainty about how much the value of your home will rise (or even
fall) in the coming years.
As a tenant, you may be taking a
standard deduction on your income tax return. This is the time to
judge how that standard deduction stacks up against the amount you'd
be able to subtract from income if, like most homeowners, you itemized
deductions instead.
Once you itemize, you may be able to
deduct all of the following:
-
Home mortgage interest;
-
All real estate taxes on any
property you own;
-
Your state income taxes;
-
Charitable contributions;
-
Medical and dental expenses
that exceed 7.5% of your income;
-
Personal property taxes if your
state has them; and most important
-
Certain moving expenses
At the start of a
mortgage repayment schedule, when the
debt hasn't been reduced yet, almost all of your monthly payment goes
toward interest. A bit goes toward reducing principal (the amount
borrowed), so that the next month you're borrowing a bit less, and owe
a little less interest. That allows more of your next payment to go
toward reducing principal. However, this process is very slow in the
beginning and the interest portion remains high for many years.
Between the
mortgage interest and the property tax deductions,
you can figure that Uncle Sam is shouldering part of your monthly
mortgage payment - 28% of it, in fact, if that's your tax bracket.
Your state income tax bracket can also be added to that, before you
calculate how much you save on income tax as a homeowner.

As
you start shopping for a home loan, your first question of each lender
will probably be "What's your interest rate? How much are you
charging?"
Interest rates are usually expressed as
an annual percentage of the amount borrowed.
If you borrowed $120,000 at 10% interest, you'd owe interest of
$12,000 for the first year. With most mortgage plans you'd pay it at
the rate of $1,000 a month. You would also send in something each
month to reduce the principal debt you owe - and the next month you'd
owe a bit less interest.
When your grandparents bought their
home (putting at least half the purchase price down, by the way),
their interest rate was probably around 4 or 5%. Rates stayed the same
for years at a time. Then in the years following World War II, things
became more turbulent. As economic changes speeded up, rates began to
change several times a year. By the l980s, lenders were setting new
rates on mortgage loans as often as once a week - and they still do
today. When inflation hit a high in the '80s, some mortgage loans
carried interest rates as high as 17% - and those who absolutely
needed to buy, paid that much.
Rates dropped gradually through the
1990s, and by 1998 had reached their lowest rates in decades. Heading
toward the millennium, home buyers appear to have the most favorable
conditions for mortgage borrowing since their grandparents' days - and
without 50% down payments either.

On the day you actually buy your
new home, in addition to your down payment
and the prepaid property tax and homeowners insurance premiums,
you'll need cash for various fees associated with the purchase. These
expenses are known as closing costs
and are paid by both buyers and sellers.
Some closing costs you pay up-front when you apply
for a mortgage loan. That includes money for a
credit
check on all applicants and an
appraisal on the property. Keep in mind that even if you don't
eventually receive the loan, that money is not refundable.
Other closing costs are possible and should be
considered when evaluating your financial situation. These may
include, but are not limited to:
- Title insurance fee;
- Survey charge;
- Loan origination fee;
- Attorney fees or escrow fees;
- Document preparation fee;
- Garbage or trash collection fees; and the big one
- Points - up-front interest paid in return for a
lower interest rate. Each point is one percent of the loan amount.
Sometimes you can contract for the seller to pay your points.
NOTE: Consider closing costs when
choosing one mortgage plan over another.
The
good news is that if your cash is limited, some mortgage plans allow
the seller to pay some or all of your closing costs, such as title
insurance, escrow fees, and points. Certain closing costs can
sometimes be added to the amount of mortgage loan you're receiving.
Figuring
Out Your Monthly Income
When you apply for a home loan the first question
may likely be "How much is your
income?" In making this determination, lenders
consider the income of all parties
who will be owners of the property. Be prepared to provide a monthly
accounting of all sources of income.
Figuring Out Your Monthly Debt
Lenders are interested mainly in your
present
monthly payments because they want to be sure you can
handle the mortgage payment you'll be applying for. Different mortgage
plans consider payments on any debt that won't be paid off within, for
example, six months, nine months, or a year.
Amount of Your Down Payment
Your down payment is paid
in cash and is not included as part of the loan amount. The
bigger your initial down payment, the smaller your loan, which reduces
the amount of your payments.
How much you'll put down depends on the cash you
have available and the amounts you'll need for closing costs and
prepaid property taxes and homeowners' insurance.
Mortgage plans have various down payment
requirements and they can range from 0% down on a
VA
– Veterans Administration Loan -
to between 3 and 5% down on a FHA – Federal
Housing Administration Loan - to 20% down, the traditional
amount for a conventional loan. In addition, special state programs
for first-time home buyers may set different sums, which are usually
lower than conventional financing.
If
you put less than 20% down on most loans, you'll be asked to protect
the lender by carrying
private
mortgage insurance (PMI). Carrying PMI ensures that the
debt is repaid if you default on the loan. This adds approximately an
extra half a percent onto the loan.
FHA mortgages, in return for their low-down-payment
requirements, also charge for mortgage
insurance premiums (MIP).

The
amount of loan for which you qualify is based on two different
calculations. Using what are known as qualification
ratios, lenders evaluate your income and long-term debts to
determine a "safe" amount for your mortgage payments. A
fairly standard ratio is 28/33. Certain mortgage plans sometimes use
more liberal ratios - for example, the FHA currently uses 29/41.
Here's how it works: With a 28/33 ratio, you'd be
allowed to spend up to 28% of your gross monthly income for mortgage
payments. The lender will then run a different calculation. This one
is your loan payment and debt payments combined, which may not exceed
33% of your gross monthly income. To calculate exactly how much you
may borrow, you also need an estimate of current interest rates.
For
Example: Suppose you had $1,000 a month for
mortgage payment; at 7% that would let you borrow about $160,000 on a
30-year loan. At 6% the loan amount would be nearly $175,000. If your
rate were 8%, the loan amount would be a bit less than $150,000.
As part of this calculation, you also need to
estimate and include the property taxes, homeowner’s insurance, and
Homeowner Association fees (if applicable) you might need to pay,
which are considered part of your monthly expense.

Choose
a Neighborhood
With
so many homes on the market you'll never get anywhere unless you
narrow
your choices. You can begin
this process by first identifying one or a few neighborhoods that are
right for you by:
- Consider Local Factors; and
- Using Neighborhood Strategies
Factors
to Consider When Evaluating a Neighborhood
When evaluating a neighborhood, you
should investigate local conditions.
Depending on your own particular needs and tastes, some of the
following factors may be more important considerations than others:
- Quality of schools
- Property values
- Traffic
- Crime rate
- Future construction
- Proximity to: Schools, Employment,
Hospitals, Shops, Public transportation, Cultural Activities
(museums, concerts, theaters, etc.), Prisons, Freeways, Airports,
Beaches, Parks, Stadiums
Whether you’re moving across the
country or across town, you can count on us to help you through every
step of the process.
Neighborhood
Search Strategies
If you’re a first time-buyer with
limited financial resources, it’s a wise purchasing strategy to buy a home that meets your primary
needs in the best neighborhood that fits within your price range.
You can maximize your home purchase
location by incorporating some of the following strategies into your
neighborhood search:
- Look for communities that are likely
to become "hot neighborhoods"
in the coming years. They can often be discovered on the periphery
of the most continuously desirable areas.
- Look for a home in a good
neighborhood that is a bit farther out of
the city. If commuting is a
concern, purchase a home that is close to public transportation.
- Look at the
neighborhood
demand by asking us whether
multiple offers are being made, whether the gap between the list
price and sale price is decreasing, and whether there is active
community involvement. You can also drive around neighborhoods and
see how many "sale pending
and "sold" signs
there are in a particular area.
Look
into purchasing a condominium or co-op,
rather than a house, in a desirable neighborhood. This way you still
may be able to purchase in a prime area that you otherwise could not
afford.

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